
Although it was close to four in the morning as I hustled toward Helsingborg Centralstation, pink, wispy clouds were already painting a watercolor picture across the sunlight summer sky. I folded my arms tightly, snuggling even tighter into my cozy sweater cocoon. After I finished the long haul from Helsingborg, Sweden to Helsinki, Finland the weather would be even cooler and the sun would rise even earlier because of a four-degree gain in northern latitude.
Once inside the Helsingborg transit hub, several other luggage-bearing travellers and I climbed aboard the Scandlines ferry that would carry us across the Oresund Sound from Hesingborg, Sweden, to Helsingor, Denmark in just twenty minutes. Ordinarily I would have travelled from Helsingborg Centralstation to Copenhagen via train, but I was taking an indirect route because it was so early that the direct trains to the airport had not yet started running. After climbing the sticky stairs to passenger deck, I situated myself at bow of the boat next to a large window. Never before had I travelled on a ferry, and I watched curiously as men in neon yellow vests ushered car after car into perfect alignment just below my perch.
The entire bulky vessel began to shake like a 1960’s weight loss machine. Much to my surprise, the anchor was drawn, the tension slackened, and in a matter of moments the mammoth boat began to glide effortlessly through the water like a swan on a glass lake.
It was not long before I had reached Kastrup Airport in Copenhagen, where my flight to Helsinki would soon depart. As I heaved my backpack up to my shoulder and headed toward security, I reached inside my purse to prepare my passport and boarding documents. My fingers groped inside the fabric interior, but they failed to grasp the object they sought. I stopped walking and gasped, eyes wide. Panic struck when I realized that my passport was resting inside the closet inside my apartment, an hour and a half away from where I stood.
I hadn’t been asked to provide documentation during any of my inter-country excursions since arriving in Europe, but I always carried my passport when travelling just in case any problems did arise. However, the knot in my stomach warned me that soon my good friend Irony was likely to play one of her satirical pranks.
Stepping toward the security checkpoint, I tossed my jacket, my iPad, and my belt into a bin, doing my very best to look, Scandanavian, inconspicuous, and well travelled. The man directly in front of me failed to feign such a convincing act. With his light-wash jeans, bright white sneakers and baseball cap, he loudly inquired, “Can I leave my shoes on?” After raising an eyebrow and giving him the once over, a nearby agent told him he could while shooting a telling glance to his partner on the other side of the metal detector.
It was now my turn to attempt the passage. I glanced toward the first security guard, shaking my head a little and giving him an “Oh, those Americans” smile. He returned the sentiment and lifted his hand, waving me through. I held my breath as I passed through the gateway. I was safe! I snagged my belongings and dodged the man who had been in front of me, who now watched as his bag was searched and his passport reviewed. My only concern was that I wouldn’t have the same luck on my return flight from Finland…
Just two hours later, after making my way by foot, ferry, train and plane, I boarded bus 601 just outside the Helsinki Airport. As the vehicle hummed into the city, I contemplated the attractions I planned to visit during my two-day stay. I intended to check into my hotel, orienting myself to the area, and tour the main sights like Senate Square and the Helsinki University Botanical Gardens. Then, I would venture to the more unique attractions like the photography museum and the local markets the next morning before my return flight. I had also carved out several hours in the early evening to experience the most time-honored Finnish tradition: the sauna.
The reason that I enjoy travelling is because it provides the best opportunity to experience new people, new cultures, and entire new worlds first hand. It helps me learn and grow, almost through osmosis at times. When exploring somewhere new, I always find myself learning in unintended, unplanned ways. Since I appreciate personal growth as one of the main benefits of travelling, I also feel that if my mind is not open to accepting new experiences, this growth will not occur, and the main value travelling provides is lost.
That is why after reading about the etiquette and traditions of the Finnish sauna I was daunted, but not deterred. The idea of a sauna in and of itself did not intimidate me. As a Georgia girl, the thought of a warm wooden room, filled with the aroma of aged cedar walls was actually very appealing since the Scandinavian summer climate is comparable to the coolest of Atlanta’s fall days. As a true Georgia Tech student, I had done my pre-trip research, and it was the customs of Finnish sauna that evoked my concern.
Throughout Finland, there are more saunas than households. Many of them are private, within individual residences or hotels, but many of them are public as well. In ways, the Finnish sauna is similar to a day spa in the United States. The saunas are in bathhouses separated by gender, usually with females on the second floor and men on the first. Finns believe strongly in the health benefits saunas provide.
In a nutshell, it is customary to enter the sauna, receive a towel and a sitting mat, pay for a “scrub,” troop to the appropriate floor, strip to your birthday suit, and enter the sweltering wooden room to bake for hours at a time whilst intermittently smacking yourself with branches from a birch tree. Only after sweltering for the better part of an hour will “the scrubber” arrive to provide the spa’s most popular service. Even after learning of these foreign customs, I was determined that I would not leave Finland without attempting an adventure to the sauna.
Later that day, as I marched up the hill toward the red neon sign like a soldier heading to battle, I felt strangely invigorated! The thought of experiencing something so new and unique left me feeling brave and excited, not awkward and intimidated like I had expected. But, my confidence began to melt like butter on a hot skillet when I cleared a tree that had been obstructing my view. There I saw for the first time nearly fifteen men sitting outside the sauna. Vapours swirled through the air as the heat of their bodies, bare apart from the short towels swaddling their legs and waist, made contact with the crisp air.
I looked myself over. I was clad in my Miss Me blue jeans, Alpha Chi Omega sorority t-shirt, Patagonia jacket, and Nike tennis shoes with neon pink laces. With my backpack and perpetually curious demeanour, I’m sure I stood out like a fox in a hen house. Or in this case… the only American female in the Finnish sauna house.
Although my feet faltered for just a moment, it wasn’t long before I regained my composure and plastered a goofy smile to my face, deciding to fully embrace my alien appearance. I even stopped and took a picture of the sign that clung to the side of the crumbling brick building. After some rough communication with the woman at the front desk, I managed to secure a day pass to the second floor women’s sauna, a clean towel and mat, and a traditional “scrub,” all for about twenty euros.
Proudly, I clomped up the stairs and around a corner, throwing my backpack and every stitch of my clothing into a locker. I stood, stark naked in the neat little locker room, eyeing the four doors that lined the walls and wondering which I should enter. After a few minutes of observation, I opted for the door on my far right. I had seen several other women, as bare as me, traverse the threshold and I thought that it must be some type of antechamber to the sauna.
I tiptoed into the tile room lined with towel hooks, showers and wooden benches. Although I was weary of calling any attention to myself, I had decided it would be acceptable for me to don the tattered towel en route to the sauna. I knew that Finns actually found it offensive if a person refused to drop their drawers while in the bathhouse, and I didn’t want to be hurled back outside in front of the hoard of half-clothed men for committing such a faux pas.
In the corner of the room a rickety wooden door hung slightly askew on its rusty hinges – I was certain I had finally come to the right place. As I approached the sauna I was again consumed with elation and a sense of accomplishment that can only come from roaming unaccompanied and unclothed through a foreign land. As I burst into the sauna with a new-found sense of freedom, I cast my towel to the side with wild abandon, embracing true, Finnish tradition!
My satisfied smile and starry-eyed gaze vanished the moment I let the door slam behind me. As I scanned the figures scattered across the hot wooden benches, I realized that not a single woman, beside myself, had decided to adopt conventional sauna customs. I just stood for a moment with the crowd taking me in as they might assess an elephant in a circus ring. It was then that I realized that these girls, all ten of them, were speaking perfect American English.
Irony had decided to play her trick after all. After three weeks at my summer internship in Sweden, during which I had received absolutely NO interaction with anyone from my home country or from my same birth decade, I had come half way across the world to a public sauna tucked away in the back alley of Helsinki, Finland only to find nearly a dozen other college aged American girls.
But, the die had been cast and there was no turning back now. I chuckled and, with a shrug, I flipped the towel over my shoulder and sat down amongst them. Despite the awkward environment, I really enjoyed the company of the clan. Each girl hailed from a different college back in the States, but they had all joined together for a furniture and interior design study abroad trip. Time passed, with many of the girls exiting the sauna every five minutes or so to retrieve buckets of cold water or to catch a breath of cool air. Just when I had become comfortable with the whole situation, “the scrubber” came.
The concept of a scrubber is one I had never before encountered. The large, pink-cheeked woman ambled my way, straining to tie an apron about her waist. In very limited English, she told me to come with her, and I obliged. Nervously, I hung up my towel and glanced toward her, where she motioned for me to lie down on a waist high bed, draped in a large piece of plastic.
“On my back or on my chest?” I asked, already unsure of myself.
“Whatever pleases you!” She replied.
The plastic tarp was light pink and printed with drawings of steaming cups of coffee dancing across its slick surface. Occasionally the words “coffee,” “caffe,” and “mocha” punctuated the artful beverage display. Somehow I found this décor to be the oddest part of the entire situation. I decided that resting on my stomach would be the most comfortable way to begin the scrub.
I felt like the catch-of-the-day as the big-boned Finnish woman hosed me down with warm water, grabbed a loofah, and proceeded to, well… scrub me. She combed every inch of me from the hairs on my head to between the toes on my feet. She did it this twice, then she flipped me over, and she scrubbed me again. Still feeling like a flounder fillet, I looked to her for assurance when I thought the scrubbing had concluded. She nodded and I slipped off the table, uncomfortably thanking her and snagging my towel before retreating to the sauna once more.
Although the situation was strange, I actually felt wonderful. And I think I would have enjoyed myself even more if I hadn’t been such an inexperienced Finnish sauna goer. During my scrub, all of the American girls had trickled out from the bathhouse and I remained in the warm room with two Finnish women, who were relaxing the “proper way.” When I was certain I would shrivel like a raisin if I stayed much longer, I showered off, dressed, and triumphantly headed to explore the rest of Helsinki, refreshed and relaxed.